Carp and Specimen fishing has changed over the last 20-30 years and technology has started to effect the equipment we are using. Modern rods are lighter and stronger than ever before, tackle is more refined and modernised, and fishing in general has become so popular it is now becoming a fashion. To be a specialist angler has changed over the years. It used to mean that you was an angler that targeted the larger of each species and went after those special fish using equipment and techniques that the hobby angler would never hear about. This has changed and the modern angler now has access to all the top end professional equipment and baits that only the "specialists" would use, what does this mean?
It means that EVERY angler now has the chance of catching a fish of a lifetime, a massive carp or catfish, Sturgeon or Salmon that you could only dream about years ago. The modern technology has put specimen angling in the hands of the hobbyist and more and more anglers are turning to "Specimen Fishing" as opposed to normal coarse or match angling. In one respect this is great as it means we can now all go out and catch monster fish but what does it mean for the future of fishing. More and more anglers are choosing to start off specimen fishing instead of learning to catch the smaller species first. This isn't a bad thing but it does mean they will miss out on many of the fundamentals of fishing and some of the basics we take for granted.
One of the biggest mistakes i see today on the bank is people with their rods all set up wrong. You can see they had the basic ideas of the set up but haven't followed it correctly and are either fishing with set ups that just wont work or a set up that is dangerous for the fish and could end up with fish being tethered in snags as they cannot get rid of the tackle in the case of a breakage. It is vital that an angler knows how to set up his rods correctly and safely. this is so much more important in the world of specimen anglers as using strong robust equipment means the fish can end up with gear that they just cannot get rid of no matter how hard they try.
When setting up our rods we have 2 main types of systems :
(1) A Running Rig System
This type of set-up means that once the bait is picked up and the fish has hooked itself it is able to move away with the rig unhindered by any tackle giving screaming runs. This will require the angler to strike into the fish to set the hook.
(2) A Fixed Rig System
This type of set-up is probably the more popular of options and is based around the traditional "bolt rig". This means when the carp picks up the bait and hook its then met with resistance from the rig and weight. This makes the hook pulls into the mouth and takes hold resulting in the fish spooking from the weight and causing the bolt effect as it charges off. Using the weight to set the hook means very little is done by the angler to get the hook hold and the angler is relying on the bait and the rig to do all the work. You can then "strike" to set the hook if wanted but not really needed with a bolt rig. Taking up the slack until the rod has a gentle bend is enough to ensure the hook is in tight.
Important Note: FIXED RIGS / BOLT RIGS ARE NOT COMPLETELY FIXED & SHOULD BE MADE FISH SAFE
When using bolt rigs or fixed rig systems we have to make sure that these systems can be removed from the fish if the rig or line breaks. We do not want fish towing long lengths of leaders or lines with lead weights attached to them. This is dangerous for the carp and annoying for the angler. "Even a Fixed rig set up cannot be completely fixed in modern fishing". Many fisheries insist on lead coming off or hook-link coming free and have now banned all completely fixed rigs from being used. If the line breaks or the fish snaps the line during the fight the lead must be able to be ejected with ease at all times ensuring the fish doesn't tow leads around and the same goes with tubing and leaders. It's so important to make sure that when you set up your rods you make sure they are completely fish safe. Companies have spent years and money investing in products to make our lives easier when it comes to fish care and fish safety when fishing. Using the correct products in the correct way is vital when setting up your gear. Using it incorrectly can result in a dangerous rig so always double check your set-up.
THE NAKED CHOD SET-UP
This is probably the simplest rig to set-up on any rod. It basically incorporates a short hook link with a buoyant bait fishing with the hook-link running up and down the line with your weight at the very end of your line. This is best used when you are not sure what you are fishing over or fishing over debris or weed. it ensures your hook-link and bait is presented perfectly 100% every time.
(1) Mainline or Tapered Mainline (usually around 10 lb to 20 lb)
(2)Flexi Ring Swivel weighted with Tungsten Putty, This allows the hook-link to run freely up and down the line to ensure it lays over any debris on the lake bed presenting your bait perfectly.
(3) Hook and Bait. A Chod rig is normally fished with a very buoyant pop up bait around 1/2 inch up to 3 inch depending if fishing over weed.
(4) Stop Bead. this helps the hook-link hit the weight of the lead when picked up so it pricks the hook into the fishes mouth for a good hold.
(5) Safety Bead. Again to help the hook-link hit the weight quicker but also stops the hook-link travelling too far up the line making the rig unusable or giving no bite indication. Its also there so in the case of a breakage the hook-link can pass over the bead and drop the lead.
(6) The Lead Weight. This helps us to cast the bait to the selected area, Helps to pull the hook into the mouth of the fish and helps to hold the rig in place whilst fishing. (Small leads are used in weedy / deep silt conditions)
* There are different variations of the "CHOD Rig"
a running chod can be fished on a leader as well as naked line.
You can also fish the Chod Rig Fixed by trapping the hook-link between two stop beads.
To fish it fixed it helps to know the depth of weed it would be sat over.
TIP: Don't attach PVA Sticks to this type of rig as it straightens the hook-link and stops the rig working how it should.
BENEFITS USING A CHOD RIG:
Easy to use and fish safe, Can be fished over any type of lake.venue bottom. Always perfect presentation. Can be cast around the lake chasing showing fish.
PROBLEMS:
Can't attach extra free baits for attraction and fish only buoyant baits.
Can be a pain having to change the hook-link after every fish caught as it destroys the small Chod Hook-links during the fight.
THE LEAD CLIP SAFETY SYSTEM
The lead clip is probably the most used bolt rig system on the market. The lead safety clip is designed as a bolt rig and that the fish feels the weight when it picks up the bait so that the hook takes hold in the mouth. The lead clip can also be adjusted to create a running rig system and more advanced set-ups but the basic set up is the one we use the most. If the carp dives into week or snags the lead is designed to pull off if it catches on anything ensuring the lead drops and the fish is still able to be landed.
* There are many variations of the "Bolt Rig" / "Lead Clip Safety System" some with leaders and some using anti tangle tubing or plain mainline but are all based around the same design with the lead coming off in the case of a snag or breakage.
TIP: Don't push the tail rubber of the lead clip on too far and always wet it with water before pushing it on to secure the lead on the cast.
BENEFITS USING A BOLT RIG:
Easy to use and fish safe, Can change weights when required, can adapt for all types of presentations.
PROBLEMS:
Have to watch for tangles when casting soft braid hook-links, Can loose a lot of weights if fished in deep silt.
THE HELICOPTER (HELI) SYSTEM
The Heli System is usually set up in a similar way to the naked chod set-up but instead of a naked line we would use a leader (lead free) or Tungsten Anti-Tangle tubing or standard anti tangle tubing. Instead of the hook-link travelling up and down the line it is kept just above the lead and rotated around the line on the cast just like a helicopter. You can adjust the distance the hook-link is allowed to travel up the line using the rubber beads in the case of deep weed or deep silt ensuring the hook-link never gets dragged in with the weight and is always presented on the top. This the BEST set-up if you have to cast long distances or like fishing at long range as this set-up stops the hook-link having any chance of tangling during the cast. Just the same as the chod rig system you must ensure that in the case of a line snapping or breakage during the fight that the lead can drop off, or the leader pull free or the line pull out of the tubing ensuring that only the hook is left in the fishes mouth and its not trailing the entire rig and lead around with it. When using leaders this is probably THE safest system for using leaders you can get as the hook-link will always be able to pull off the leader due to the heli set-up.
* There are many variations of the "Helicopter" / "Heli System" some with leaders and some using anti tangle tubing or plain mainline but are all based around the same design with the hook-link able to come off in the case of a snag or breakage.
TIP: If fishing deep weed or silt use a second bead to close the gap so the hook-link doesn't have to travel too far before it feels the weight of the lead. This will help in quicker bite registration and help to hook the fish quicker.
BENEFITS USING A HELI RIG:
Can be fished at distance with ease and no tangles, easy to set-up,
Fish safe and ensures you presentation even in deep weed.
PROBLEMS:
Difficult to attach PVA Bags or Stringers as the "Heli" doesn't cast the same.
THE INLINE SET-UP
Another set-up based on the fixed rig system is the inline lead set-up. This method is preferred by ,many carp anglers as they believe the lead works better on the system as its inline meaning the lead is always picked up from its heaviest point. this gives quick and good hook holds. Some believe that the lead clip system can twist and turn before the full weight of the lead is felt giving a chance for the fish to rid themselves of the hook and that the inline system gives a much better hook hold. I think its really down to personal preference and what type of venue you are fishing as if fishing over deep silt on a soft bottom an inline can pull the hook-link into the silt and would be better off using a clip in this case. Again when setting up an inline system you have to ensure that the lead can come free in the case of a breakage or snap and that the hook-link can come free from the rig. This means the system is safe and the carp/ fish can get rid of the rig if in snags or tangles. In-lines are also able to be fished inside PVA Bags with ease and you can get away with using large weights and short hook-links resulting in some great hook holds.
* There are many variations of the "INLINE LEAD" Set-up some with leaders and some using anti tangle tubing or plain mainline but are all based around the same design with the Line travelling through the lead and the hook-link attaching to the other side of the lead and able to come free in the case of a snag or breakage.
TIP: If fishing deep weed or silt it is difficult to use this set-up unless fishing inside of a PVA bag as the lead will drag the hook-link down into the weed / deep silt. If fished in a PVA it tends to make a small pile and the hook-link sits on top giving good presentation.
BENEFITS USING AN INLINE RIG:
Can be fished at distance with ease and no tangles when set-up correctly, easy to set-up,
Can be fished with heavy weights and small hook-links in PVA bags a very good "quick bite" method.
PROBLEMS:
Difficult to cast soft braided hook-links with out the aid of something to stop tangles ie. PVA Nugget, PVA Stick etc.
